No. 1

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is largely useful in mountaineering where it can be tied with gloves on, and made in a rope without access to either of the ends; a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes.  Developed in 1928 by C.E.I. Wright and J.E. Magowan while attempting to improve the  selection of knots available to  climbers, the name is “so styled  on the basis of a more or less  fanciful resemblance [of a butterfly] imagined in the form of the knot.”